Al Ula is the first and best travel destination of Saudi Arabia, a whole new country just opened to world travelers. I’ve spent 2 weeks between Jeddah, Al Ula and Riyadh, organizing everything by myself, and these are some tips (and especially photos) from my experience.

Introduction on Saudi Arabia

Why visit Saudi Arabia?

Saudi Arabia is one of more recent travel destinations that opened to world traveller: it opened to tourism for the first time at the end of 2019, and after few months they had to close again for the pandemic. Finally, the country opened again to travelers at the end of 2021, and it is working very fast to become a prime destination in the middle east, competing with Dubai and Jordan, its closest neighbours.

So basically you will be traveling in a “new” country, which has a lot to offer in terms of natural landscapes, archeological sites, diving sights and urban life.

Is Saudi Arabia safe?

On the contrary of what (western) media let us believe, middle east is very safe, and muslims are super welcoming towards international guests. I have visited Jordan, Israel, Iran and now Saudi Arabia, and I have never even felt unsafe.

If you are smart enough, you will understand that Saudi Arabia is a very religious country, and the birthplace of muslim religion, so everything must be thought in that perspective: no alcohol, no drugs, no explicit behaviours.

The upholding of laws is VERY strict, so there is virtually no criminality, especially not towards tourists.

How to organize the trip in Saudi Arabia?

I have organized everything by myself, and it is not an impossible thing. All cities have accomodations on booking.com, local transportation in cities can be arranged easily with Uber app, and you can find local tour companies for sightseeings trips.

Or, you can go through an agency, but expect very high prices. There is no low to average tourism options, but from high end to splurge ones.

Is Saudi Arabia expensive?

In a word: yes. If you expect prices like Jordan, you have to reconsider your budget.

Some figures:

• accomodations: in cities like Jeddah and Riyadh you can expect good hotels from 130 euros a night. Special accomodations in top places, like Al Ula, can go from 400 euros a night (unless you stay in a farmhouse, and you are going to pay anyway 130 eurs per night.
• meals: if you go to fast food like restaurants you can expect 10-15 euros a meal. For touristic ones, double it. For very fancy ones up to 100-150 euros a person
• tours: these are the expensive ones, especially in Al Ula. Plan carefully on which tours you want to invest your money

Habitas resort, Al Ula, Saudi Arabia

Habitas resort, Al Ula, Saudi Arabia

Al Ula: tips and experiences

Why visit Al Ula

Al Ula is the crown jewel of Saudi Arabia, and to me, the main reason of my trip. It was a major stop along the Incense way, thanks to a rich oasis, and home to HEGRA,  the second most important city of the Nabatean Kingdom, and first site of Saudi Arabia to become a UNESCO world heritage.

Here you can experience an astonishing desert landscape, archeological sites and amazing restaurants.

This is the place where Saudi Arabia is betting all its cards for attracting international travelers, and you literally see resorts, lounge bars and international events popping out week by week.

And remember, it is not a cheap place. Resorts starts from 400 euros per night, fancy restaurants range from 50 euros a meal a person, and tours goes from 100 to 300 euros a person. It is a lot, but I assure you that the quality of everything is excellent.

Almost all tours and experiences can be easily booked online on EXPERIENCE ALULA.  This is the only website you’ll need to plan your staying.

Candlelight Concert in Hegra Archeological Site

New Year’s Eve in Al Ula has been one of the best I’ve experienced in my life: a candlelight classical music concert in front of Nabatean tombs, in the middle of the desert! This special event has been simply perfect, and enjoying these centuries old tombs lit only by candles, while listening to a beautiful classical music concert, well, it is an event very hard to forget!

al ula saudi arabia hegra candlelight concert

al ula saudi arabia hegra candlelight concert

al ula saudi arabia hegra candlelight concert

Hegra Archeological Site (Madain Saleh)

Hegra is the FIRST archeological site of Saudi Arabia that become a UNESCO World Heritage Site , the remains of the ancient city of Nabateans, the ones that build Petra. Petra was the capital, Hegra the second most important city. What remains of the city are the tombs, carved out from desert rocks.

The most famous site is THE tomb of Lihyan son of Kuza (once called also Qasr al-Farid tomb), a 35 meters tall tomb isolated from the rest of the sites, that stands alone in the desert. Left unfinished, it is the most exciting site of Saudi Arabia, and I’ve spend A LOT OF time in front of this beautiful sight.

Qasr al-Farid tomb of Lihyan son of Kuza in Madain Saleh

You must experience the site with an helicopter tour (around 175 euros), and from a photography point of view my reco would be booking it from 4 to 5 pm, for the sun position.

Qasr al-Farid tomb of Lihyan son of Kuza in Madain Saleh Al Madinah Hegra

As you can clearly see in this shot, the tombs were carved from top to bottom, using wood sticks and water to separate the big blocks of stone from the rock.

hegra archeological site aerial helicopter drone view

hegra archeological site aerial helicopter drone view

hegra archeological site aerial helicopter drone view

Hegra canyon

Al Ula Old Town

This settlement of mud houses has been used from the XII century until just 50 years old. Beside the city tours which is very interesting, you can experience old town in the evening, where on its main (pedestrian) city you’ll find restaurants, shops, etc. It is opened also during the day, but the evening is definitely the best time of the day to walk around.

al ula saudi arabia old town

Maraya Concert Hall & Maraya Social

Maraya Concert Hall is the world biggest building made completely of mirrors, designed by italian firm Giò Forma. It is truly a mirage in the desert, and must be seen at different time of the day. To visit, you need to have a reservation at one of the hotels of the valley (Habitas, Banyan Tree), at the restaurant Maraya Social or a special permit. You can’t just go there and access the area.

al ula saudi arabia maraya social aerial drone helicopter view

maraya concert hall

maraya concert hall

Maraya Social is the restaurant on the rooftop, opened by 3 michelin stars chef Jason Atherton. If you have to choose to spoil yourself with just one fancy dinner, this is the place. Without any doubt.

maraya social restaurant night outdoor

Sharaan Nature Reserve

This natural reserve is located around 4o minutes north of Al Ula, and can be accessed only via an organized tour. The tour is with open air jeep, and will let you spend few hours in this desert landscape. If you have never experienced the desert, it is a nice one, but I would not consider this a must-do, also considering the cost of over 200 euros per person.

Sharaan Nature Reserve tour

Sharaan Nature Reserve tour

Sharaan Nature Reserve tour

Sharaan Nature Reserve tour

Sharaan Nature Reserve tour

Sharaan Nature Reserve tour

Sharaan Nature Reserve tour

Sharaan Nature Reserve tour

Jabal AlFil (Elephant Rock)

Elephant rock is well, a rock foundation shaped as an elephant! It is a famous place thanks to a beautiful work done around this place, that created a coffee bar and a burger restaurant (called “Salt”), and it is a beautiful place to enjoy a coffee or a meal, especially in the evening or at sunset (it opens usually at 4pm)

elephant rock

Few word about Jeddah and Riyadh.

Jeddah: historical area and scuba diving

Jeddah is a nice coastal city, the highlight of the city is the Al Balad historical district, best to be seen in the evening (during the day is quite deserted). Add extra days if you want to do scuba diving, otherwise a couple of days are more than enough

Jeddah Al Balad historical district saudi arabia

Jeddah Al Balad historical district saudi arabia

Jeddah Al Balad historical district saudi arabia

Jeddah Al Balad historical district saudi arabia

Riyadh

The capital of Saudi Arabia is an endless landscape of malls and restaurants. Do the daytrip to the Edge of the World, visit in the evening the old town around Al Masmak Palace Museum and go up the tallest saudi skyscraper, the Kingdom Centre.

saudi arabia riyadh edge of the world

saudi arabia riyadh edge of the world

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Petra by CandleLight Enrico Pescantini

This is the comment of the Jury:

Enrico Pescantini’s image ‘Petra by candlelight’ (Jordan) also caught our judge’s eye. Adam described it as ‘a monumental composition taken at night, demonstrating the skill of a photographer able to capture a spectacle of light, at a location that showcases human skill more than 2,000 years ago, while also showing us the stars.’

Adam Stanford of Aerial-Cam, and Simon Butler from Hidden History Travel & Archaeology, who sponsored the competition, with the photos at CA Live! 2019

“Petra by Candlelight” has been shot with Sony A7R and lens Tokina Firin f2, 30″, F/3.2, ISO 800.

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Accommodation options are a lot, from any budget. Personally I suggest you Lacosta Hotel: quite cheap (around 70 euros a night), very modern, new and clean, and with a very nice staff. Only downside they don’t have a private parking, but plenty of public one outside. Since you are there, one of the best restaurant I’ve tried in Jordan is 10 minutes away from there, a local restaurant with amazing Jordan dishes, a nice outside courtyard and great prices, Syrian Palace Restaurant.

Now, the best snorkeling spot is in South Beach, located south of Aqaba, and easily reached with 15 minutes of driving. You just get there, park your car along the road, and get to the beach. Super super easy.

Once you are in the Red Sea, the snorkeling experience is amazing, both for the variety of fishes and for the underwater landscape, also called Japanese Gardens

So, honestly, how was it? Well, it is good but not actually the best I have tried. It was definitely better at Seychelles (see here)

The worst part honestly is the plastic and pollution both in the beach and in the water. The beach is very dirty (I mean, for European standards) and also in the sea there is plastic and stuff. Quite a disappointment.

For these photos I have tested a new underwater equipment: I have switched from GoPro Hero 6 Black to combination of camera and underwater case.

After tons of research, I have tested the Sony a6000 with the kit lens 16-50mm, combined with a Meikon SeaFrogs underwater case. The choice of the Sony was for the APS sensor, while the Meikon is a very good quality case for a very cheap price. Ideal for snorkeling!

In my opinion, the quality of the photos is sensibly better than the GoPro Hero 6 Black, while the downside is that underwater you get shaky photos for anything shots less than 1/300 shutter speed. So fewer shots than the GoPro went right, but the few ones that did are of a very good quality.

Next test will be of my main camera, Sony A7R, with another Meikon case. It’s time to go big!

Sony a6000 Meikon SeaFrogs underwater case

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Actually, when I was there at the beginning of November 2018 (3 weeks ago) I saw a huge movie set (locked out by police) that locals told me to be of the latest Star Wars movie. That is also the reason why we couldn’t do the hot air balloons over the desert, an activity that was suspended during the shootings.

Wadi Rum is located 1 hour from Petra, and you can easily drive to the Visitor Center, where most of the activities starts. But if you want to spend the night there, there is this amazing and magical place called Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp, where special inflated balloon tents let you sleep under a transparent roof.

The inflated bubbles are very comfortable and cozy, and the view, well, it is simply breathtaking. You have an outside patio – relax area, an entrance with a double door (to avoid the lost of pressure of the bubble), a main bubble with a comfy huge bed and a small bubble with the bathroom (toilet and shower). Personally, the ideal combination of comfort and immersion in the nature.

There around 10 bubbles in the front, and other regular tent-rooms close to the mountain behind.

The shot above was taken from the small peak next to the camp, where you can easily climb up and enjoy the view of the whole camp and the desert around.

And if you thought the view to be amazing during the day, well, wait until dark to see the miracle happening.

Almost zero light pollution (but if I have to say not as dark sky as Namibia) make this place perfect for star gazing, especially after 10pm, where ALL the lights of the camp are turned off.

You can easily walk and explore the surrounding area, both at day and night, to watch the stars in the absolute silence of the desert.

And here the night timelapse I took during that beautiful night!

As always, as everywhere, I pay for all my trips, so no sponsored content here.

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Shiraz is often seen as just the starting point for visiting Persepolis, but it actually deserves 2 days for visiting it. The most magnificent place is without any doubt the Pink Mosque (Nasir ol Molk Mosque), famous for the stunning pink light that comes from the many colored windows of the Mosque.

For seeing such effect, you have to go in the early morning, and the guard told me that during winter time (since the sun light is lower) the effect is even more magnificent.

Also the external courtyard presents some quite unique decorations, with the recurrent depiction of roses, symbol of Shiraz.

For Muslims, Shiraz is sacred due to the sanctuary of Shah Cheragh, the brother of Imam Reza (one of the 12 Imam of Islam), which instead is buried in Mashhad. Dress properly for the entrance, where you will be accompanied by a free guide.

You can visit the internal courtyards and have a peak at the flashy tomb, which is truly a spectacular sight.

I strongly recommend you to pay a visit also in the evening-night, it is always open, and the architecture is lighted quite well, ideal for photography.

From Shiraz let’s move to south-east Iran, just below Kerman. Bam was one of the world-famous attractions of Iran and the world largest “mud-brick” building, a beautiful fortress with an higher citadel.

I said was because unfortunately in 2003 a massive earthquake nearly destroyed Bam, and in the past 13 years a very slow reconstruction is trying to restore it. Is it still worth to visit? I believe absolutely yes.

To have an idea on how the mud-brick citadel should have looked like, you can visit the Rayen Castel, 100 km close to Kerman. Perfectly preserved, it has been ignored for years, shadowed by the Bam citadel.

After the earthquake, Rayen survived Bam, and it is a very fascinating site for spending one hour of sightseeing, and it can be a stop on your way back from Bam.

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To visit Persepolis and the surroundings it is going to take from half to a full day, and it is one hour from Shiraz (well connected to the rest of Iran).

In Persepolis, the Last Shah of Persia held the ultra-glamorous celebrations for the 2’500 year of the Persian Empire, inviting dignitaries from all over the world. It has been considered one of the most expensive party every, and it shocked the population of Iran, which often was very poor. This has been on the sparks of the Iranian Revolution against the King of Iran, which called itself also “King of Kings”.

The entrance to Persepolis is through the magnificent Gate of All Nations, also called Gate of Xerxes, where everyone entering Persepolis was passing by. From here, the guests could be received in the King Palace or go in the Army quartier. Didn’t have my drone with me (bringing a flying camera to Iran didn’t seem to me a good idea), but you can get a view from the satellite thanks to Google Earth .

The worst part of this is all the vandalism graffiti left on the wall. If we think that graffiti is a recent phenomenon, well, here you can spot names and dates of tourists (because we can’t call them travellers) during the centuries.

In the road after the gate, on the right side, you can spot a perfect statue of Gryphon (or Griffon or Griffin), a mythological creature with the head of an eagle and the body of a lion. The origin is ancient, and there are trace of this beast both in ancient greece, india and egypt.

Gryphon

For those who have seen the Hollywood movie “300”, in the film Xerxes was attacking the Spartans with ferocious warriors called Immortals. They actually existed, not as deformed men like pictured in the movie, but as highly-trained soldiers, picked as a children to be the elite guard of the Persian army. They were 10’000 men, and if one died it was immediately replaced, thus the nickname “Immortals”

Immortals warrior

Immortals warriors

Another peculiar symbol seen all over Persepolis, and in Iran, is the Lion attacking the Bull. The Lion is a symbol of power and strength, and the symbol of the Persian Empire itself. Another interpretation is that it shows the spring celebration, where the sun (Lion) attacks the Earth (Bull.)

The lion attacking the bull

The few surviving statues reveals beautiful details: the ones best preserved are the one found covered by sand, that protected them by vandalism and weather

Lion symbol of Persia

Sculpture

Xerxes on a throne

In the day trip to Persepolis, there are 2 other unmissable sight: the first one is in Pasagardae, and it is the Tomb of Cyrus the Great. The historical importance of this 2’500 years old monument is impressive, and while you are paying visit to the King of Asia and the founder of the Persian Empire, remember that people have been doing the same in the past two thousands years.

Pasagardae, Tomb of Cyrus the Great

The second site is the necropolis of Naqsh-e Rajab, where there are the tombs of Darius the Great and Xerxes. If you have been to the Valley of the Kings in Egypt, you will not a striking resemblance between the two sites.

Naqsh-e Rustam

Just on the left to the necropolis there is the site of Naqsh-e Rajab, which are carvings of the Assanid era.

Naqsh-e Rajab

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It is called the city of windcatchers (Shahr-e Badgirha), also called wind towers. They are an ancient Persian system of ventilation for the houses, and in persian are called Badgir.  They are basically towers that catches the wind and direct it inside the house, a natural and sustainable air conditioning system (here a detailed explanation)

Windcatcher towers

Windcatcher towers 2

Yazd is also famous for the Zoroastrianism, a pre-islamic religion, which nowaday survives only in Iran, mainly in Zayd, and in India, in the city of Mumbai. The sightseeings regarding this religion are mainly two. The first one is the fire temple, which, besides a nice facade, it was a let down. Inside you can spot a fire which is said to burn continuously from centuries.

Zoroastrian Fire Temple

On the front, you can spot one of the main symbol of Zoroastrianism, and also of Persia itself, the Farvahar. It represents a sort of guardian angel, and it is very common in Iran.

Yazd Zoroastrian Fire Temple Faravahar

But the most astonishing sightseeing of Zoroastrianism in Yazd, are the Towers of Silence, located just outside of the city. They are burial site, but the particularity of this religion is that the dead were not buried, or burnt, but brought to this place, on the top of the towers, and left there for the birds and animal, to feed on them. In this way, the dead bodies were not polluting the earth, or the sky, but they were used as food for other living beings.

Other notable sightseeings in Yazd are the Jame Mosque, which entrance is one of the tallest of Iran. Appreciate the tileworks both on the entrance and in the main hall, they are exquisite.

Behind the Jame Mosque, you can start a walk among the small alleys of the historical centre of Yazd, with the unique houses made of mud. It is a spectacular walk, not to be done in the midday, the hot is unbearable! That’s why I have no shots of this, you will have to discover it yourself!

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Kerman itself does not offer many attractions, beside the bazar, like all Iranian cities, and a couple of minor monuments. An interesting one is the following:

Wonder what is it? It is a… ice storage! Called Yakhchal in winter workers were moving ice blocks inside, and then the very, very thick walls of the structure were keeping it cold and iced during the summer. It is the last one remaining in Kerman, and really fascinating.

With the help our our driver-guide, we drove towards the Shahdad desert, famous for the Kalouts. Vegetation start to become very rare, and it stays only on the top of this peculiar hills:

This hills are actually created by the roots of the plants, and they are called Nebka: the plants can’t survive without this hills, and the hills disappears if the plant dies.

Around the desert of Shahdad, the last city before the Kaluts, your guide can bring you to the QANAT, an ancient water conduct, excavated by persians thousands years ago. They were used to bring water from the mountains to the villages, and they run deep underground. Visiting them is a fascinating experience, and the water that runs underground is really freezing! Even if outside the temperature is 45 degrees (in August).

Qanat Shahdad Desert

Qanat Shahdad Desert

After that…well you finally arrive to the Kaluts! The scenery is out of this word, and I recommend you to arrive by sunset. To get there, it is not needed a 4×4 vehicle, and you can get in with a regular car. There is a popular spot to watch the sunset, and most of the car stops there.

Kaluts desert sphynx

Kaluts desert landscape

Kaluts sunrise

kaluts sunrise

Kalut – ready for camping

We slept in the desert, thanks to our guide, that provided with cooking equipment and a simple tent. I strongly recommend you to do the same, sleeping under the stars in the desert will be one of the gem of your travel to Iran. The following photo is taken in full night, and with no lights, with an exposure of several minutes.

Kalut by night

The following morning, after a night of stars-watching, the sunset will literally take your breath away.

Kaluts sunrise

Kaluts sunrise

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This “ancient hotel” was used from 1600 by merchants travelling on the Silk Road, and it is the only one that has a circle inner-courtyard, besides being the best restored one in Iran.

It is located 1 hour from Yazd, along the way to Kerman, precisely here. 1 night with dinner and breakfast costs around 100 USD, all worth it. Book in advance, they are very strict with reservations.

From here you can continue to Kerman: you can catch a bus on the highway next to it, but be careful, not all the buses will stop, you really have to stop them waving strongly your hands! Ours didn’t, so we had to catch another one and change again before getting (finally) to Kerman.

But I would like to advise all travellers: is is not located in the middle of the desert, but 300 meters off an highway, that is the only downside. Approaching this place is definately mistical, especially at sunset.

From the outside it looks a kind of a castle, with round towers around the perimeter.

The inside…well, it is simply astonishing, but i don’t want to reveal too much.

Caravanserai Zeinodin Courtyard

The room is very, very simple, but comfortable. Bathrooms are in common, but very clean and comfortable. It is not a 5-star hotel, but definately not a cheap hostel!

Caravanserai Zeinodin room

Best part is the rooftop, where you will enjoy a sky full of stars.

Caravanserai Zeinodin rooftop

I have few shots of Caravanserai Zeinodin: I was so enchanted that I left my camera back in the room, and travelled in the past in this timeless place. A must-go if you are visiting south of Iran.

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Tehran Kashan VIP bus

In Kashan, you have to sleep in a historical house, and the best 2 in town, which have been converted to boutique hotels are Manouchehri House and Saraye Ameriha Boutique Hotel: I’ve chosen the second one, and I have to say it was one of the best experience of Iran: It is a fully restored historical house of a rich merchant family, and it is full of courtyards and small pools.

Saraye Ameriha Boutique Hotel courtyard

The basic room was beautiful, with carvings and colourful windows all around. And a view on the courtyard.

The view by night in the hotel is even better, as is the dining hall, a white shining room where you can try local specialities.

The main sightseeings, which are the traditional houses, are in the same block. The first house, and probably one of the best one, was the Borujerdi Historical House: the pictures will describe better the view

Borujerdi Historical House 1

Borujerdi Historical House 2

Borujerdi Historical House 3

Borujerdi Historical House view from Sultan Amir Hammam

The view of the “dome” of Borujerdi Historical House above was taken from the roof of Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse, which is probably the best historic hammam of Iran, it is truly astonishing. But no, you can’t take a bath, just pictures… very unfortunately.

Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse roof

Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse inside 2

Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse inside

Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse main room

Next to the ammam, there is the second historical house, Tabātabāei House, which features a beautiful courtyard and some nice internal decorations.

Tabātabāei House outside 2

Tabātabāei House outside 3

Outside the area of the historical houses, you pay a quick visit to the Agha Bozorg mosque: a walk inside will take you only 10 minutes, and it is quite nice.

Agha Bozorg mosque

Not before late afternoon, you should visit the Bazar, which is quite nice and not so crowded. While walking aorund, you can’t miss a beautiful caravanserrai, which was basically an ancient hotel for merchants travelling around the Silk Way.

Khan Amin al-Dowleh Timch Caravanserai

Khan Amin al-Dowleh Timch Caravanserai 2

Another amazing spot is the Hammam-e Khan, an old hammam converted to a teahouse: you can sip a tea or even smoke a waterpipe. I truly loved this place! Ask around for directions, it is quite a popular place, open also for dinner.

Hammam-e Khan Kashan Bazar

Almost all the tour agencies and hotels, including the Ameriha, organize a early-morning tour to watch the sunrise in the Maranjab Desert near Kashan. During the trip with a 4WD vehicle, you will experience the sun rising up from the sand dunes, and it is truly an breathtaking experience, worth the early wake up! For the 4-hour tour (5 am to 9 am) we paid 60 euros. Very well spent.

Maranjab Desert Kashan sunrise

Maranjab Desert Kashan sunrise 2

Included in tour there is a “visit” to the salt lake: you should know that it is basically a vast part of desert which once was a salt lake, so you will see a desolated land with the soil all cracked up. Definately an interesting and fascinating view! Not to go during the day, at 8am was already crazily hot.

Maranjab Desert Salt Lake 2

Maranjab Desert Salt Lake

Maranjab Desert Salt Lake 3

While Kashan is often skipped in the main tour, I found it truly a gem and an highlight of my trip in Iran, definately worth 1 night and 1 day!

#everydaykashan

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